8/20 Very Nice Lakes

21.1 hiked today, 2168.8 miles N, 5.2 miles left
"The Birches" Campsite

Today I woke at the Rainbow Spring Campsite next to Rainbow Lake. I popped up at the first light of day. Being that I had seen no sunrises that I can remember I decided to go for an early peak at the lake to see if I could see one today. Of course I should have know from last night's stunning sunset that the sun would be at my back. Still the lake was gorgeous. It was very cold out, I think low forties. Comparatively the water balmy at around 60 degrees. As a result a low fog of steam formed above the water and betrayed the gentle currents of air. I saw a raft if ducks crossing the lake as I sat on a rock on the shore enjoying the peace.
Finally the cold drove me back to the warm surroundings of my sleeping bag where I shivered for a a little while while reading my book. I have been reading "Desert Solitaire" by Edward Abby. He is phenomenal writer with a amazing ability to describe things that resist explanation. He also is a very unpleasant person and I find myself torn. I read to see more of what he sees and spend my time mentally arguing with him or just plain disliking him. Finally I could not rest any more so I started to quietly pack up.
I hung around as the air warmed up and the other hikers started stirring. I stayed at the campsite until Dent was packed so we could hike out together. Last night when I pitched my tarp I looked for the softest patch of ground. In the end I was not pleased by any tent site but I did observe a small grassy area right next to the trail where I had set up. I think this saved me a lot of grief because Dent had been bothered by mice all night long. They had not even waited for him to sleep. Instead, as he puts it, a mouse strolled into his tarp and right into the beam of his headlight as if it owned the place. After that some violent actions with a pillow took place which resulted in a dizzy mouse wobbling out of the tarp. That was not the end of it though and I hear they came back again after that.
We hiked out and made easy time to the boundary of the hundred mile wilderness. We first rounded the perimeter of Rainbow Lake, no small task. Being so large the views were many and varied looking like they came from different lakes. Next we got a view of Katahdin from the top of Rainbow ledges. Now is getting so close that literally I know I could get there by sundown if I wished to.
At the end of the hundred mile wilderness there is a road walk that takes one by the Abol Bridge Campstore. There Dent and I both stopped to pick up out last days food as it was the only place to get food in the remaining section of the the AT. It was an amusing spot. The campground did not have electric service or telephone service, instead they had their own generator and a cell phone powered pay-phone ($1/minute). What was amusing is that running by the front of the campground was a massive high tension power-line. Sitting in the shadow of that they were still burning diesel.
We took a long break there chatting with people heading south and eating a lavish lunch of, in my case, two block of ramen. I have been trying for months to get a picture of a dragon fly and finally got my chance. There was one clinging to the side of the camp-store that held still enough for me to get some very good pictures of it.
We left after having our fill of food and rest. We soon realized that we took a much too long break. Not because there wasn't time to make it camp but because what there was a lot to look at. Once we entered Baxter State Park we realized it deserves a generous time allocation. We made the best of it taking short breaks. We passed a meadow with the view of Katahdin, the best thus far. Next we hiked along Katahdin Stream and it's tributaries for a while. Then we saw Little and Bg Niagara Falls. Along the way the sun started to set framing the still lit mountain ahead in darkened trees.
What was the greatest treat was the lakes of Baxter State Park. We passed by several and I hesitate to say I had a favorite. They all were painted in pastel hues that changed as the sun dipped lower. Finally it started to get really dark and we had to haul to make it to the shelter. We didn't make it in time but we still managed to find the shelter after much doubt as to it's location. There are two small shelters here. One was taken by a group we did not see and who is already asleep. However since the other shelter is empty we can set up without disturbing anyone.
I had to believe this is the last night on the trail. Mentally I am perplexed. My feelings have not swelled or my vision changed. Today feels like every other day. There is still the easy hiking and the knowledge that I am progressing towards a great goal. However that goal feels as far as ever. Tomorrow I am interested to see how I feel.