Wednesday, July 25, 2007

7/21 Drying Out in the Views

5.4 hiked today, 1807.7 miles N, 366.3 miles left
AMC Greenleaf Hut

I ultralight backpack and with it comes many compramises. One of them is in choseing gear. I could carry a light tent that weights around 2 lbs that would protect me from bugs and most rain. For 3 lbs I could get a shelter with a better floor and full coverage fly that would keep me dry even in the most driving rain. In winter I could, for just a few ounces more, could get something that would bounce spindriff. I, however, hike with a tarp. It is a fairly large one, about 9 1/2 feet long and wide enough for two people side by side. The nice thing about this arrangement is I only have to carry about 12 oz in my pack. Also if I am clever in how I pitch it I can keep one side open to view the sunrise or to catch a cool breeze on a hot night. On the downside however it weakens the bug, rain, and snow repellancy and last night was when the balance of conditions hit that hole.
Overnight the conditions grew worse and worse with a very cold breeze picking up to a steady wind with occasional gusts. Add to this rain. In the end the rain got atomized by the wind and though my tarp protected me from falling drops the rolling clouds of mist rained down on me under my tarp. By the time I woke up everything was wet. Fortunate for me my body heat kept most of the moisture out of the sleeping bag so I still slept warmly.
This illustrates part of my philosphy, I am happy to risk a bad night or day every hundred or so for 99 days of more comfortable hiking. Anyhow last night I still slept resetfully but I had to make an effort today to dry off.
After I woke I slowly packed up as James was still asleep and I felt no zeal for packing up wet gear.
Finally it was 9AM and I decided it was time and woke hime up a little while before I headed out.
Since James was behind me I decided to take the side trail up Liberty Mountain to the summit and I am glad I did. The summit was a rocky rugged summit with 360 degree views and srong winds. Initally when I arrived there was only one person up there, a weekender name Craig, whom I had a very nice converation with. After taking for about half and hour a crowd started to arrive and by the time I left the summit there were at least 20 people on it.
This how it would remain the rest of the day, every summit packed with day tripers. I dropped back down below tree line and climbed the famous Franconia ridge line which was packed with things too see. The ridge line runs above tree line for over 5 miles undulating between alpine summits with unrestricted views. Simply amazing!
On the way up Little Haystack Mnt, the first I would come across on Franconia ridge, I leaned over to stablize my self while climbing through some rocks. The water bottle on a side pocket popped out and fell into a rocky crevase where it slide out of reach or sight. I tried to get at for 5 minutes but finally there was no hope. I feel bad leaving it behind but there is nothing I could do. At least I had another couple liters inside the backpack in a hydration pouch.
On top of Little Haystack Mnt. I took great advantage of the sun ad breeze by putting out all my wet gear to dry. Some of the day trippers were locals around these parts and they often struck up conversaton with me. I was taken by their passion for these mountains visiting dozens of times a year in any season. I got a lot of good information on what to see along the way and the location of several "steath" campsites. The way the AMC has sites spaced out around here is very awkward and so this imformation gives me much greater flexibility. Others people were excited to be talking with a backpacker and peppered me with all sorts of questions. Also to my delight they offered me all their excess food and even a couple drinks so that I could replace my dropped water bottle.
Hiking along the ridge really slowed James and I down but I didn't mind. I enjoyed siting on top of the summits looking at the Presidental Mountains to the North. Below me I could see the trail along the barren ridge snaking from peak to peak. The views and weather were just awesome and really defy description but I took many photos.
The way things worked out since we were getting behind scedual today due to the rough hiking James and I agreed he would hike ahead to the Garfield Ridge Campsite while I stayed behind and took a 1 mile detour to the Greenleaf Hut just below. With this I could do a work for stay and they would feed me. Otherwise I will run out of food from the extra day hiking before town.
The descent to Greenleaf hut was fast and surprisingly easy for a mile and once there I got "work for stay" easily. The "Croo"(Crew) who manages and run the hut where super friendly. Work for stay is only available to AT section and thru-hikers. The way work for stay works is if they have room (usually there are 2 spots) they will give you some small job to dofor a couple hours. In return you can sleep in the dinning room and you get to eat any left over food after all the guest have eaten. The reality is if they run out of food they will cook more until you are full, here they made vegitarian potstickers and cereal after I finished the leftovers.
The Huts are of remote buildings with bunk rooms, food service, and running water but not much else. Alll the supplies there have to be flown in in the spring or carried on a croo member's back.
The hutmaster nearly forgot to give me a chore but at 8 PM she told me to sort some books so it was a cakewalk of a chore.
At sunset the croo invited me to join them on the roof of the hut and watch what turned out to be a stunning sunset over the mountains. It is the type of sunset that could kept poets employeed for years.
Then I just hung out until the people mostly were in bed and spread out on the floor.
In the end I am getting a pretty good deal as all the guest here have to spend $97 for the privlage to stay here.
The location is awesome with the hut located on the shoulder of Mount Lafayette. Between it an the summit is a picture perfect pond and the whole deal is surronded by the dense boreal forest I love so.

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