Friday, September 5, 2008

9/4/2008 Getting interesting.

Hosteling International Hostel in Seaside, OR
Miles Today: 67
Miles Done: 413
Miles Left: 1404

Today was not a fast day but it was a good day. I got miles done and got to take some time to relax too. However it started a bit unpleasantly. At 2:45 AM I woke to sound of loud country music. I assumed it was an alarm clock. It continued for at least 10 minutes before the discourteous owner turned it off. Being that I was awake and annoyed I decided to take a bathroom break before closing my eyes. I crawled out from under my tarp and walk along the Columbia River towards the bath house. As I did so I saw the safety lights of 2 very large ships on the darkness. One of them was moving at what I would call a respectable rate but not fast. The rate I am used to large ships going. The other, which was much bigger, I assumed was a barge and it was hauling butt. It moved quickly along the river in a impressive fashion, now that I think of it probably because it was heading down stream. What was more remarkable than it's speed was the smoke stack. It towered above the main cabin by 30 feet and from it a dim stream of glowing crimson embers emerged and trailed slowly off to the water stern of the ship. I can only imagine it was burning coal because I do not think diesel would make embers.
I suppose the loud music was to be thanked as I would not have seen that boat without it. When I awoke again I found a clusters of small boats in the river and the shore was lined with dozens of fishing poles. Salmon season is just starting and it looks like everyone was to get in on the action.
I packed up and head out.The my route flowed along the bank of the Columbia river to near it's mouth. The road was smooth allowing me to move more easily and I made good time. I crossed a bridge to Puget Island and made a quick stop outside the library to get my emails but since I didn't have much battery life left on my laptop I didn't stay long. At the south side of the Island I meet up with a ferry to cross the Columbia. My timing was just right so I rolled right on to the waiting ship and five minutes later we were off on the short journey. That is not to imply the Columbia is a small river, it appears to be nearly as wide as the Mississippi where I crossed though I have never seen the Mississippi south of Illinois so I am sure it gets bigger.
On the other side I entered Oregon for the first time. I pedaled though quite farm land and flood plains. A ways up the river I reached Astoria at the mouth of the river. I took my first pleasure break of the trip when I stopped by the Astoria Maratime Museum. It was a very nice museum detailing the history of the local area. I saw examples of old boats that were once used for fishing and read about the people who used to catch and can the fish. I saw pictures of how bountiful the Salmon harvest once was, it seemed limitless, and how it has declined since. The museum is located by the shore and they had an old lighthouse boat moored that one could climb in and see the quarters people used to live in. I was small but looked very comfy. The ship featured a bright light on a tall mast and they would anchor on the mouth of the river as a light signal where no island existed.
The trail circumnavigated the town and crossed a couple bridges. Next I reached the green wooded flat of Lewis and Clark National Park as it hugged the shore of the lazy Lewis and Clark River. After that the terrain changed dramatically turning into long exhausting climbs and fast descents through the steep hills inland. Disturbingly, several miles went through a clear cut section of woods. It was not just the trees had been clear cut but they, in most cases, have be torn from the ground in the process leaving the ground as a carpet of jumbled stumps and root balls.
After that a long decent brought into Seaside which I checked into the hostel after a little searching. I got the shower I needed from last night. I saved some money by making a Knorr/Lipton rice side dish among all the other residents who were making stir frys of fresh veggies. I was just too tired to got shopping so I settled on my crude highly processed dinner for simplicities sake.
The people here are fablously varied from all places and where had great wide ranging conversations on the likes of bio diesel production to cooking Italian food.

No comments: